I can’t believe its Saturday, we’re heading home tomorrow.  Of course I’m excited to see my family but it is hard to leave when I know it will be a while before I get back.  2 years, 10 years, I don’t know when I’ll be back but I will be back.  I am not done here. I’m sure of only one thing at this point, I’m going to miss it here.

One thing that Ellish at Passport Health told me before coming here is that just because it’s a Tuesday it doesn’t mean that the banks and post office will be open.  There is absolutely no schedule here and most days are holidays - seriously, there is always a celebration going on in this culture.

So I was elated when on the way to Lha this afternoon the walk past an ‘open for business’ post office.  As everything is an event here, getting stamps and mailing the postcards took about 20 minutes (there was no line).  I high tailed it to class but arrived to an empty room.  I walked down the hallway only to peer into more empty rooms.  Where was everyone?

I heard voices and laughs coming from above; I headed to the roof.  I could smell the milk tea from the stairs.  I was immediately emotional, there was a graduation ceremony going on.  Our students, the beautiful people that believed in us, were receiving their certificates of completion.  It was very emotional, it was beautiful, it was a ceremony filled with joy and hope.

This is when I knew that we had made an impact.

I mingled, laughed, received gifts of appreciation, took photos, gave hugs and cried.  My inner voice just kept reminding that these moments were once in a lifetime and to remember how it felt so that I would never forget.

One student who had just touched my heart from the first day as I shook his hand was Shatkay.  I had heard a bit about his story from Gaye and Jack,  about his escape from Tibet and his ultimate survival.   Throughout the week, whenever he saw me he would greet me with a huge smile and hug.  There was goodness about him, a goodness I had never seen in another human being.

As he walked over to me today, his smile pierced through the fog, he was visibly moved by his achievement.  I said, ‘Shatkay, I’m so proud of you.  I’m so happy for you, what a wonderful….’  Before I could finish he put his hands on my shoulders then threw both arms into the air holding his certificate, looking up at the sky, he shouted ‘Best thing in my life Jessica, best thing in my life.’

This is when I knew that we changed lives.

Today started a bit tumultuous with a hike to the temple seen from our hotel.  Louise and I set out after coffee with Carol at Lhamos Croissant.  We meandered down the hillside behind Him View and in keeping the temple in sight we headed towards our destination.  We got a little mixed up and found ourselves on a private veranda with an older woman wondering what the hell we were doing.  As I walked straight into a bedroom, I could only assume we had taken a wrong turn.  Head towards the school house…the temple is right above it.

Taking an alternative route we crossed a garbage filled stream and towards the school house.  This was the first time we had headed down from town and into the valley.  We had been staying in town or hiking up into the mountains.  And with every different territory we discovered, we found ourselves being followed by a pack of dogs.  Normally not a problem but today, we had one who was foaming at the mouth and being extremely protective (territorial) over one of the dogs.  A large black dog growling and foaming and right by Louise’s leg - not the most settling of feelings.  We couldn’t lose them, no matter what.  There was a small white dog in particular who the black dog was being very aggressive towards, I wasn’t quite sure where this was going to lead.  I thought ok, this dog is most likely rabid and obviously pissed, again not the most settling of feelings.

The temple, ahhhh, finally maybe the healing spirits of the temple would ward off the aggression of the dogs.  I was ahead of Louise at this point and reached the temple.  I turned around to see where she was but my eyes were immediately drawn to the black dog who was right behind her.  Mouth curled, foaming saliva and showing every one of it’s teeth - I though to myself, ok, don’t let her know that this dog is about to attack, just start…

The screams of the little white dog were haunting, before I could think another thought the black dog was gruesomely attacking the smaller white dog and Louise was right in the middle of it.  I told her to walk away and starting throwing these huge rocks by the fight to break it up.  I thought for sure we were going to have a dead dog on our hands and a killer eager to kill again.  I started screaming at the dogs and throwing the rocks nearby  them.  It worked, they stopped.  All of a sudden the black dog stopped and it was silent.

Before giving him a second to reconsider any sort of re-engagement I told Louise to stay on my heels and we were heading straight up to the road.  I mean straight up.  She protested a bit, ‘maybe we should back track to the school and the way we came.’  I vetoed that immediately.  My thinking was that there were upper Dsala dogs, lower Dsala dogs, road dogs, mountain dogs and valley dogs.  If we headed up to the road the dogs would stop and not follow up anymore.  Fight or flight were basically the options, I opted for a strong hold on flight without panic.

The pack continued to follow, the little white dog that just got his ass kicked seemed to be alright…tough little dude.  We continued straight up, the black dog would not leave Louise’s side and was still growling, foaming and occasionally flashing his chompers.  The little white dog was sticking by me.  We crested the ledge and there was an Indian woman standing there, I was shaking and my heart beating wildly.  ‘The dogs, I don’t like when they fight’.  She looked at me compassionately and said in broken English ‘I know, I know but you cannot do anything about it, they are animals and they will work it out, they should not hurt you but you must stay away when they fight’.

As soon as Louise caught up and approached the road the dogs stopped following us, like an invisible boundary they couldn’t go any further.  They turned around, we turned around and went our separate ways.  Unfortunately, I heard one more attack on the white dog but we had to keep going.  They needed to work it out, this was their life and that scrappy little white dog obviously knew what he was getting into.  Fights or no fights that was his pack, that was his plan and the valley was his home.

We slowed it down and heading back into town, letting our hands shake out and release the traumatic energy.  No sooner did we hit town did we see yet another dog fight, it was terrible, one dog was visibly injured.  The towns people broke it up and we started to shake again.  We headed down temple road and into a very heated argument between 3 Israeli men.  They were yelling so loud and were very close to each other.  I thought, holy shit, we going to see another freaking fight, this time human.

We looked to the left and saw a beautiful store window filled with gorgeous silk dresses.  Looks like a good place for refuge for two stinky traumatized women.  The argument subsided out front and $2100 Rupees later I am the proud of a handmade, silk dress and scarf from Eternal Creation.  Shopping therapy really does work, I don’t exercise that type of release in the US because everything is so expensive but when you’re dishing out $27 for designer original that is the type of therapy this Gumkowski can afford.

Today of all days, I was feeling tired and quiet when I woke up.  I wanted a quiet day without drama and possibly a nap.  Instead, I got a triad of fighting, a gorgeous dress and most certainly a new friend in Louise (she is awesome to shop with).

So sore from Yoga today, not sure if I will be able to go tomorrow.  I’m not sure if I will be able to go for the rest of my time in Dsala for that matter…just another confirmation that training for triathlons does not necessarily translate to other activities.  I basically got my ass handed to me by Yogi Sividas, even with doing all the modifications with the poses I am having a hard time recalling when I have been more sore than I am right this instant.

Moving on….  Every day is a big day here.  From sunrise to sunset we are on the go - I don’t want to miss a thing.  I gave my massage appointment to Gaye last night since her back was really hurting and I rescheduled for 10am this morning.  I had a very leisurely morning at First Cup with the girls; Louise, Carol and Becky.  The massage was Aryuvedic, it was quite vigorous and warming.  Certainly a bit racy by American standards but strictly therapeutic.  He used these intense healing oils and definitely got some stuff moving.

Afterward, I went to pay the balance on my purses and in lieu of the correct change my friend gave me a change purse as a gift.  He would not allow me to pay 40 rupees over the cost (less than $1 US).  He wanted to be even and not owe me.  These people are so giving, trusting and fair.  Yesterday when I purchased the gorgeous handmade bags I was short, instead of coming back with the money and leaving the purses there he insisted that I take the bags and come back the next day to square up.  ‘I trust you’, he said ‘you come back later and pay me, whenever, it’s ok, I trust you’.

This reminded me of a very opposite experience I had at Whole Foods in Boulder.  It was about a year ago.  After ringing up my groceries (no more than $60) I realized I had forgotten my wallet.  My first reaction was to look around, surely someone would help me.  Instead of eye contact I notice everyone in line looking down at the ground or up at the sky or out the window…looking anywhere but at me.  I know not to expect anything from people but if it was me behind the woman who forgot her wallet I would have paid for her groceries, I would have helped her with no hesitation. Trusting that she would square up with me later.   That is just the way I was raised, my mom would have done the same thing.  Instead, I stood there embarrassed as I had to ask for everything be put back and my order be cleared out.  I walked out of the store with a heavy heart, another strike for humanity and simple kindness in America.  I remember calling my husband and was very sad about my experience.  I can’t believe that not only would no one help me, no one would even look at me.  I said ‘I’ve just lost some faith honey, I’ve lost some faith in humanity’.

So as I walked out of the shop today in Dsala with my gifted change purse and the pure energy from the shopkeeper’s endearing embrace I started to weep.  Not for any other reason than my restoration of belief and faith in humanity.  There is a woman in our group who has been beating vendors down on price, for me, I just want to support them.  With gifts averaging $3-$5 US, it doesn’t make sense to me to get a better deal.  Not when all they have is their vendor table and a downturn in tourism.

Up early this morning via the brown husky who was trying to get the natives restless but found only frustration and solidarity in his efforts.  A smile started the day and as we go on 7 days together I found that alone time is what I need today.  I’m at the First Cup across from the nunnery watching the bustle of the day begin.  It’s 6:45am and of course the First Cup guys are not ready yet for my order. A pup from the nunnery just came by and nuzzled my arms.  He looks like he has a good life.

Today I need to wander a bit there are still many things I would like to see and today I want to go it alone for the most part.  Meeting up with Carol, Becky and Louise for yoga at 8am then I would like to take a shower, a hot one would be nice.  We just figured out that hot showers were an option.  Go figure, everyday leads to many surprises.  Twenty more minutes until the coffee will be ready, this would never fly in America.  Personally, I prefer it.

I’ll be helping Becky with chair massage today while the others visit the Tibetan Childrens Village (TCV).  ‘Others before self’ are the words to live by at TCV.  The motto, one of many it seems.  Others before self…meaning stop bitching when you don’t get your way, stop judging when people don’t pull their weight and stop expecting anything from your service efforts.  This concept is one I need to adopt and incorporate into my own life and belief system.  I preach self care but not others before self.   America is not a service oriented society so in a way taking care of oneself is a necessity.  But there must be a middle ground for Americans where they can pull their heads out of their wallets, their eyes away from their  plasma televisions, hands off the wheel of their gas guzzler and their hearts out of consumerism.  Unfortunately, so many people in our country will never be ale to do any of those things, they just don’t get it.  They never will, I feel so sad for them right now.

Fast forward to 12pm - I’m sitting at Moonpeak Espresso waiting for my lemongrass tea and spinach pizza.  As I hung out at First Cup this morning Carol and Becky came by - we decided the Llhamo Croissant would be a better option for coffee.  It was.   Americano with Tibetan toast and homemade jam. Headed to Kailash Yoga for a 2-hr Ashtanga class.  The instructor was mellow, sweet and wasn’t intimidating.  He’s been practicing yoga for 30 years.  He looks very young so a good testament to the health benefits of yoga.  The class was pretty challenging, at one point I thought ‘ok, we’ll be wrapping it up any minute’.  Then I saw the clock, it was 8:58, oh my 62 minutes to go.  Suck it up endurance girl.  The second hour went quick and as I sit here now resting my body I feel simply lovely.  Today was my first hot shower, I couldn’t help but feel a bit of guilt.

In an hour I will give chair massage then teach from 2-5. Louise and I have massages at 6:30.  The guy next to me just lit up a camel - this is my only complaint, the allowance of smoking inside and outside.

My tea has arrived and is quite delicious.  Pizza should be out in 20 minutes.  I will sign off here and just relax until it arrives.

So much we have already experienced.  The food, the people, other towns, hiking, teaching, shopping - all main attractions.  Now I feel that I am settling into the details.  Noticing the results of torture within some of the folks.  There is this one guy I keep seeing whose feet are literally on sideways.  I wonder if they broke his ankles and that is just the way they healed because he couldn’t walk.  I’ve actually seen a few people like that.

Louise and I started teaching yesterday.  We have 5 women in our class,we estimate their age at around 20.  They are beautiful, eager, very grateful and light hearted.  How I wonder?  How did they get here?

We have heard a few stories already.  One of our girls had an uncle living in Nepal.  She got permission from the Chinese government to visit him and then she took off once arriving in Nepal.  She walked to Dharamsala.Today we are going to ask our girls why they are taking massage class.  Jack said that their class is mostly taking this to work on family members.  With there being no hospital nearby this is the next best thing for healing.  That concept overwhelms me.  In lieu, of medical care they will turn to massage for health.  I have a skill to share that will change their lives and that concept overwhelms me.

Yesterday morning we met the advanced students.  As I shook their hands I looked into their eyes and saw nothing but happiness.  How?  They have nothing and to American standards this would mean utter despair.  I left Lha and stood on the steps outside.  With the school children in my view I took a deep breath and digested our true purpose to make a difference. I have always believed that if I stay on my path the story of my life would unfold just as it should.  If I trusted the moments of unhappiness and struggle, embraced the times of prosperity and wealth that I would end up exactly where I should.  For today, that is Dharamsala.

We are heading to the Tibetan Childrens Village at 9am, just hoping my camera charges up.  Many photos to be taken today, many memories to be captured.

No surprise that today, our first day of teaching at Lha happens to fall on the International Day of Peace…that’s how this entire trip has been since the day I got wind of it.  Nothing has been a coincidence and all of this was meant to be; falling together seamlessly like it was in place the entire time.  I woke up this morning and thought..Today is going to be a big day.  Today we begin teaching at Lha.

Our plan is to head over at 9am to meet the students.  There are going to be 4 classes total split into 2 morning classes for the advanced students (previous massage training) and 2 afternoon classes for the beginners (no previous massage training).  There are 2 teachers to each class. I am teaching in the afternoon with Louise who is a Swedish instructor from BCMT.  She’s totally cool, diplomatic and direct - good qualities.  I think we’ll make a good team. We are working alongside Jack and Gaye who are teaching the second section in the afternoon.

Last night the four of us met to discuss a general approach for the week.  We will have 18 hours total, 3 hours each day through Saturday.  Our goal is to teach them how to provide a full body Swedish therapeutic massage and show them chair massage on the last day.  We brought over a massage chair from BCMT which is being donated to Lha this morning. We feel that chair massage is a great way for these students to get out into the work force and start making an income immediately.

I’m heading upstairs for breakfast now, Tibetan toast for sure…espresso for sure, maybe the muesli today.  So far, the food is outstanding.  Tonight Tsering is making us a dinner at the hotel.  We thought it could be a great way to meet up with everyone and discuss our first day of teaching.

Pretty fired up, it’s going to be a big day.